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Playing WOT Artillery by mnstc

Updated: Feb 23, 2023

FOREWORD.

There is an Artillery Clan -NBA- (Nothing Beats Artillery)


This has replaced Artillery Notes in the Rough Draft.

There were some technical issues editing Artillery Notes in the Rough Draft.


Thanks to: Blackhawk, Drippie, Taco, rdks, Dorn_B_Dynn, Bee. Monhair, Patonic

mnstc: MultiNational Security Transiton Command


If you don't want to read all of this look at the: colored text, pictures, & Rule of 5.

For the short version go to: Artillery Basics (wixsite.com)


Does not reflect WOT changes 06/22/2021 new arty rounds & mouse scroll wheel changes.


Updated: 09/17/2021. Further updates contingent on not exceeding data limit.


Green text is external hyperlinks

Grey text is internal hyperlinks.

Yellow text denotes editing required.


If I have used someone else's material I try and give credit and a link.


TABLE OF CONTENTS


Introduction and basic artillery rules. - 1 - (Greyed numbers are hyperlinks)

Basics. - 2 -

Positioning Artillery - 3 -

Aiming - 4 -

Factors Affecting Shots - 5 -

Counter Battery - 6 -

Techniques - 7 -

Battle Field Analysis - 8 -

Battle Field Preparation` - 9 -

Splash Damage/Splash Kills. - 10 -

Other - 11 -

Examples - 12 -

Reticle Blossom - 13 -

Closing - 14 -


Needs Work: Techniques, Battle Field Analysis/Preparation, Splash Damage/Kills, Other.

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1. INTRODUCTION AND BASIC ARTILLERY RULES


The first 100 times is not failure it is learning what don't work (BlkHwk).


I recommend watching two videos: Spotting Mechanics and Bush Mechanics. Watching them will pay dividends in knowing what gets you spotted and how to hide.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gj3-WDx7Zus

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Ofw2sCnE


THE BARE BASICS:

  • Shift key to put it in arty mode or change back to driver view (TD Mode)

  • G key to switch between overhead and trajectory

  • Small circle small circle - try and wait until you have the smallest circle

  • Generally stay back unless you are short range arty (You are a one shot dolly).

  • Generally spot behind cover (back side of hill/building/rock, etc...)

  • Use concealment when ever possible.

  • If you spot in the open make sure enemy is outside your white circle (Max View Circle). Where can I be spotted from in the white circle, move or use cover or 15 meter behind concealment.

Keep it simple


The Rule of 5:

1 Small circle - Small circle - Small circle

2 Pre-aim

3 Patience

4 Aiming target in center of map firing V (Keeps reticle from blossoming)

5 Lock your tracks (Wide Firing V - when possible narrow firing V)

Second Five

6 CTRL Key + Mouse Right Click (Moves aim to where you click on the map)

7 High Ground (Spot your arty on higher ground then the targets)

8 Battle Field Analysis

9 Battle Field Preparation

10 Splash Damage/Splash Kills.

Third Five

11 Fifteen meters behind vegetation when possible (reduce muzzle flash) in the bush if

there is a strong possbility of being spotted from the flanks or rear.

12 Max View Range (Are you outside direct observation within the max view range)

13 Mini-Map (Train yourself to look during reloads and when aiming circle is closing)

14 Think options don't get one tracked target fixated

(wait don't charge, other routes, etc)

15 High Ground (Easier shooting high to low then low to high)

More

16 Aim short as circle closes move it to target.

17 Bail out locations to re- spot to (near and far)

18 Can you re-spot safely to make the shot especially end game.

19 Moving Targets - Aim where they will be when the shell lands (3 - 5 vehicle lengths)


Don't blame the game or team, everyone has the same game mechanics, you don't get to

choose your team, focus on what you can do, sh*t happens.


The purple italicized section below is from Commissar Kharkov's web page.


The Basics (by Commissar Kharkov):


1). To enter the artillery overview mode, hit the "Left-Shift" button. Now you have a

top-down view of the battlefield.

2). In the top-down view, you can use the mouse scroll wheel to zoom in and out.

3). The green line represents what you can potentially hit. The red lines show

obstructed areas. The gray line means it is out of range.

4). The "Golden Rule of Arty Dots" - if you see an oval of dots in your top-down view,

that's the area your shot will land in. If you don't see the dots, it doesn't matter if

there is a green line to the target, your gun is not facing the right way. To resolve

this, rotate the hull of the tank. You may have to zoom out in top-down view to see

the dots as they track around. Note that in some tanks the hull will rotate

automatically (albeit slowly) and the SU-26 is an exception as it has a turret

(so auto-rotates).

5). Once you have the dots showing in the target's area, hit "X" to stabilize the gun.

This will prevent the hull from moving but will increase the accuracy.


Good point X is the default setting. Wide firing V work better then a narrow V if targets are not stationary.


6). Center the "oval of dots" over your target, adjust for any movement (it takes a

second or two for the arty shot to get there), and shoot. If the target is stationary, try

to put the tank between the "crosshatch-mark" and the "center-dot" to increase the

chances of hitting it. (Overhead View)

7). If you are following a target and the dots stop moving while you are tracking it, hit

"X" to unlock the gun stabilization and allow the hull to turn. Manually turn the hull if

need be. Then hit "X" to stabilize the gun once you have the target lined up.

8). Rain death upon your opponents!!!


Some other tips:


- Find a good place to set up. Hiding is good, like in a bush or behind a building. Move

away from your base a bit if possible to avoid getting shot up by base-rushers.

- If an enemy tank gets near:

-- switch back to normal view by hitting (Left-Shift), and get ready for a direct-fire

"shotgun" attempt on them.

-- Use the attention function on the minimap to make your teammates aware of the

problem (Hold down "Control", then mouse-click on the minimap).

-- As soon as the enemy tank is dealt with, you will need to immediately relocate.

-- Enemy arty will target your last known position and nuke you, so be sure to move

away a bit.

- Upgrade to a good radio as soon as you can, as this means access to more target data

from your teammates.


1. INTRODUCTION AND BASIC ARTILLERY RULES

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2. BASICS


Basic Pointers for Arty:

  • Keep it simple: Small circle, Pre-aim, Patience

  • Make sure you have an aiming dot (red loading, green loaded and you can hit target)

  • Make sure your aiming circle is as small as possible


  • G key switches between overhead and trajectory

  • If you have no aiming circle the target is outside your range

  • Every map has at least one spot, even Himmelsdof (3 at least)


  • Battle flow of what generally happens on that map

    • Beginning, middle and end game

    • Where a tank was last spotted

    • Where a tank will most likely be spotted

  • Patience above all - but sometimes not too patient.

  • Battle field preparation knock trees down. Don't hide in a tree you just knocked down.


DRIVING IN ARTILLERY MODE - TRAJECTORY VIEW (Image 1)


Links


Break the notes into bite size chunks instead of trying to understand all of it and do all of it.


If you are going to play arty, start at Tier V on an arty tech line.

  • Below Tier V is a bit more difficult to play generally you do not learn the best spots for artillery locations, it does have some benefits (fast moving targets).

  • Collectibles do not research higher tier arty. To pursue the artillery line the Tier IV TD just below the Tier V Artillery, that leads to the Artillery Tech Line.


If the information is overwhelming keep it simple: Small Circle - Pre-aim - Patience


Premium Accounts do not get a better win rate, it gives 50 per cent more silver/xp per

game, which can lead to a better win rate, crews are trained faster, and you get more

silver to buy equipment, consumables, etc.


German Tech Line Progression to Artillery (Image 2)



Types of Artillery.


Five Types of Arty:

  • Short - Med Range. Generally Tiers II - IV, Crusader Tier VII.

  • Short Range High Arc. Can lob behind buildings and rocks: SU I8 II, FT BS II, Loyd II, Bishop V, FV 304 VI (Pin point accuracy).

  • Med Ranger High Arc: Grille - Lobs very close behind buildings and rocks.

  • Medium Long Range High Arc105: le FH18B2 Leaf Blower lobs behind buildings/rocks

  • Long Range. Generally Tier V - X except as noted above


The purple section below is copied from Battery_Overlord web page.


Section 1: The Tech Trees. Overall in World of Tanks, there are 5 tech trees with artillery.

The Americans T92 HMC, The British Conqueror Gun Carriage, The German G.W. E 100,

the French Bat.-Châtillion 155 58, and the Russian Object 261. Each one of these has its

own strengths and weaknesses, and the most common you see in Clan Wars are the

T92 HMC, Conqueror Gun Carriage, and the G.W. E 100.


1a The American SPG Line. The American SPGs throughout the line have a decent mobility (The M53/M55 having the best in the line), decent gun arc, as well as moderate

reload/accuracy. They have a typically longer reload as they have some of the bigger guns at tier, as well as a moderate aiming time. The M44 is known as one of the best at tier 6, packing a fast reload and solid turret traverse. The M40/M43 in my opinion is the best at Tier 8, running with a solid gun, steady reload, and continuous reliability, even when matched with Tier 10s. The M53/M55 has the one of the best mobilities at Tier 9, second only to the French, with a very broad turret traverse, as well as a heavy hitting gun.

The T92 HMC has the biggest howitzer in game, leading it to having one of the longest reloads at tier (second to the B.C. 155- 58), at around 46 seconds. It can on average splash

tanks for 400-500 hp and leaves them with a stun of over 30 seconds. My personal recommended equipment loadout is the Shell Rammer, Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, and a Heavy Spall Liner.

For more information visit:


1b The British SPG Line. The British SPGs are known for their Arc first, and everything else

second. Birch Gun has the best arc and tier 10 with a fast reload, and the FV304 bring with it the mobility to move everywhere on the map to hit you anywhere. The Crusader SP also has a solid arc, but low damage gun, also it has a neat attribute attributed to it, it drives faster in reverse, making it easier to get around the map for relocating to support the team. The Tier 8s and 9s bring some higher alpha, beyond that nothing to noticeable. The Conqueror GC without a doubt has the best arc at Tier 10, solid mobility, and the second heaviest hitting tier 10 arty. It packs a reload of about 38 second reload, but a slow aim time of 6 seconds. Also its recommended to be a little closer to the front lines then a typical SPG because with that arc comes a long flight time for the shell, you’re also at some instances unable to shoot across the map. The recommended equipment loadout is Gun Rammer, Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, and Vents.

For more information visit:


1c The German SPG Line. The Germans typically have a good balance between damage and reload. Especially at low tiers, being the only ones who leave a stun on any targets they hit. Grille has the second-best arc at Tier 5 while carrying a notable reload. The GW Panther has some of the best mobility at Tier 7, with a solid gun traverse as well. From the G.W. Tiger P. onward, you carry a big gun, but slow mobility. The G.W. Tiger carries the same as the gun as previous tier. The G.W. E 100 has the third biggest gun of the SPG family, a solid balance between alpha, accuracy, and reload (about 35 seconds), and also the second-best arc, only behind the Conq. GC. My recommended load out is Shell Rammer, Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, and a Super Heavy Spall Liner.

For more information visit:


1d The France SPG Line. The French have mobility going for them throughout the whole line. They also carry low splash and damage but have a faster and more accurate Rate of Fire. Starting with the B-C 155 55 is when the line gets access to a turret. Once you get the B-C 155-58 is when you carry an auto loader. The auto loader carries 3 shots, with very pour damage compared to the rest of the Tier 10 family. The full reload takes about 50 seconds, while each in between shot takes about 10 seconds. The suggested load out is Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, Binos/Optics, and a Camo. Net.

For more information visit:


1e The Russian SPG Line. The Russians are a strange line. From Tier 6 and lower they have

a good mobility, faster firing with solid alpha. Tiers 7-9 become bigger, harder hitting guns, and the Tier 10, goes to having damage just a bit better then the French. The tier 7 SU-14-1 has a little bit better arc then the Fellow S-51, as well as a faster firing gun, a little bit more accurate gun. The Obj. 261 has the fastest reload at 32 seconds and is the most accurate, but the lowest arc at Tier 10. It has fantastic mobility but extremely low gun arc as well. For more information visit:



Width of Aiming V - To be completed - Firing V's of the Different Artillery wixsite.com

Work in progress last update 26 April (5 Arty on post currently)


Aiming Circle Size - To be completed


Spotting. Spotting is a bit different for each type, for short/med range, cover the main

attacks/defense points or pick a flank if you can't cover the whole map . Generally only 1 or 2 main battle areas, with several skirmish areas. Mentally draw a line from the main battle area back to friendly side for possible areas to spot. Considerations: is the location safe, are you boxed in, if spotted, can you hide behind something, preferably one escape route. Fifteen meters behind vegetation when possible (reduces muzzle flash). Are direct observation threats in your Max View Range, if so re-spot or use cover.


Artillery Views:

  • Driver View (Also called TD View/Mode)

  • Overhead View

  • Trajectory View

Artillery Keys:

  • Shift: Changes from driver view to artillery view or vice versa.

  • G: Switching between overhead and trajectory view

  • T: To mark a target (Sometimes if friendly in aiming circle it will say Help)

  • RMB (Right Mouse Button):

    • To lock barrel in place (i.e. for a shotgun blast)

    • To look in another direction without moving turret or changing direction (arty).

  • Other: You can use the mouse to change where your gun is aimed or your direction of travel versus using the a/d keys.

Other Keys:

  • Z: Warning Triangle, Help, Support Me, Acknowledge help request.

  • F8: Reloading

  • ESC: To exit battle when you are dead

  • Ctrl + Right Mouse Bank +

    • Click on map shifts aim to that point

    • Start of battle where you intend to go

  • Alt: Shows Team and vehicle health

  • Tab: Map Name and Team Compositions

  • Ctrl + Left Mouse Bank pings the map where you click the cursor on the map

  • Ctrl "c" to copy and Ctrl "v" to copy paste . Use the mouse to high lite the text.

  • RMB + Click on map where you are going to

  • LMB + Click on map is Attention to.


Platoon Chat Keys:

  • H: Enable/disable chat platoon chat

  • Q: Voice chat (Click mouse somewhere in the garage and then hit "q")

  • Tab Key: Use the tab key to change between room chat and platoon chat, text will be in orange for platoon chat and green for room chat.

  • Platoon voice chat does not always work in garage but generally works in battle.


Things to improve performance

  • Training

  • Crew Skills especially BIA (Brothers in Arms)

  • Equipment (Vent Purge 5 percent to crew skills)

  • Food Consumables (Can sometimes be costly but very helpful, reduces load time, improves crew performance)

  • Directives


Suggested Equipment.

  • Rammer

  • Enhanced Gun Laying Drive

  • Improved Rotation Mechanism or Turbo Charger

  • Bino's, Optics or Camouflage

  1. #1 equipment slot is power slot move what you need there especially the rammer.

  2. Sometimes using case hardening instead of suspension for equipment upgrades generally works but not always, costs silver vs xp, when you have the xp you can upgrade the suspension.

  3. Turbo vs Improved rotation mechanism.

  4. Crew Books can be used once crew is 100 percent trained. Personal Reserve, and

  5. Accelerated Training can be used to train the crew or get skills faster.

  6. Order to get: radio, engine (sometimes gun before engine), gun, suspension


Crew Skills. BIA is recommended first. BIA only works when all the crew has it 10 percent.

If you are comfortable resetting skills you might choose another skill first, then reset it at the earliest possibility (when the second skill is about 40 percent). Sometimes I will take the loss in resetting skills to BIA to have other certain skills temporarily (i.e sixth sense).


Commander

1. BIA or Sound Detection.

2. Sound Detection or BIA

3. Eagle Eye or 6th Sense

Gunner

1. BIA or Dead Eye

2. Deadeye or

3. Snap Shot or Designated Target

Radio

1. BIA or Situational Awareness

2. Situational Awareness or BIA

3. Extend Range or Relay Communications

Loader

1. BIA

2. Concealment

3. Repairs

4. Fire

Driver

1. BIA

2. Off Road Driving (Increases Speed and improves rotation)

3. Clutch Breaking

4. Repairs, Concealment, or Fire


You can use Free XP (Experience) to increase crew skills.


  • If you crew swap and all the crew has BIA skill at 100 percent you will get at least of percentage of BIA on the new vehicle even if the crew is not 100 percent trained.

  • When crew swapping it is recommended you do not take the whole crew, if you are just starting out this might be the only option.

    • Two schools of thought, yes and no, neither one is right or wrong, use what works best for you.

    • Try to take the Commander, Gunner, and Radio Operator from different crews.

    • If possible take them from the vehicle where you get the most most XP. (Higher Tier, Premium Vehicle, a vehicle you do well with and get lot of XP with in a battle)


An example of a possible crew swap you have just got the M43 and your crews are trained and have 1 skill (BIA preferably) on M41, M44 and M12. You take the Cdr from one vehicle, the gunner from another, and the radio man from a from a 3d, then a strip vehicle of both loaders or take on from 2 vehicles and put them on the M43. Three benefits by doing this if they all have BIA - the BIA is in effect even if they are not trained on the new vehicle, they generally start at 90 percent, and they seem to train quicker. I have got crews fully trained in 20 - 30 battles doing this. Then when you get the M53 - same deal, granted each vehicle loses a little bit when you take one from it but the new vehicle is buff :)


Types of experience (XP)

  • Free xp: Can be used to research equipment or a vehicle.

  • Blue Prints can be used to research a vehicle - not recommended under Tier VI)

  • Battle xp: Used to research equipment for the vehicle or research the next vehicle.

  • Crew xp: For increasing crew training and crew skills.


Marks of Excellence. Doing more damage/damage assistance then 65 percent of the

players, award is shown on the barrel and listed under vehicle awards. Damage is an area you have some control, winning/losing is team dependent, some good teams some bad.


If you are getting close to a Mark of Excellence (within 2-3 percent) consider using food

consumables and orderly ammo rack directive or aim tuning directive.


Master Badge. Higher Experience (XP) in battle then 99 percent of other players for that

vehicle in the previous 7 days.


Equipment and Consumables.

  • Equipment Slot 1 is the power slot, put your rammer there for maximum effectiveness.

  • Consumables. Put your consumables in the same number for every vehicle to save time, instead of having to look where a consumable is.

  • Consumables: Generally not worth the cost of buying, if they were free it is well worth it. Generally don't need a fire extinguisher on arty (use if free).

  • Food Consumables, Gasoline, and Directives are a one time use, one game only.

  • Repair/First Aid/Fire Extinguishers multiple games if you survive.

Personal Reserve. Can be used for extra: Crew XP, Battle XP, Free XP and Credits.


Accelerated training. Can be used to train crew faster, draw back not as much XP used for

equipment and vehicle research.


Types of Rounds.


High Explosive Stun (HE Stun)

High Explosive No Stun (HE No Stun). Has more penetration then HE Stun.

Armor Piercing (AP)

Recommendation 2/3 HE Stun, 1/3 HE No Stun and 1-3 AP rounds. HE Stun is the most versatile round and is generally more effective damaging vehicles not in the open (behind buildings and rocks). Some maps are more conducive to using HE No Stun instead of HE Stun. AP does seem to work at long range, it might work for a shotgun blast.


Field Modifications.

  • Turn off Accelerated Training to apply experience to Combat XP

  • Equipment Tweaks and Levels

    • Equipment Tweaks you are giving up something to gain something elsewhe.

    • Level III - 1 percent dispersion

    • Level IV - 2 percent dispersion

    • Level V - 3 percent dispersion


Equipment and Consumable Slots (Image 3)


Artillery Views:


Driver View (TD Mode) (Image 4)

Overhead View (Birds Eye - Can use scroll wheel to zoom in) (Image 5)

Trajectory View


  • Generally in Trajectory. Overhead is very useful for large map shifts, splash damage behind rocks/buildings, counter battery or shooting at moving targets in forested or heavily vegetated areas.

  • Re-spotting. Generally re-spot after every shot to throw off counter battery, staying in artillery view while moving keep the reticle on target to see if adjustments to aim). Re-spot 1.5 - 2 vehicles lengths/width. Hit w/s and or a/d immediately while staying in arty view.

  • Settings Recommendations.

    • Display arc of fire for the SPG on the minimap.

    • Settings/General Tab, Battle Interface (Right Side 1/2 down the Battle Interface)

Field Modifications: To be added


More to Follow on settings


2 BASICS

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3. POSTITIONING ARTILLERY (Rework)


For locations to spot Artillery go to:

Map Strategy: Highway - WoT Guru (Link to website) The link gives some artillery spots.


Where do you spot your artillery on the map.

  • Fifteen meters behind vegetation when possible (reduce muzzle flash) if there are no threats to the flanks or rear that can spot you within max view range circle.

  • Threats within Max View Range direct observation, if so re-spot or use cover..

  • You can't always cover all areas, cover the main battle area(s) at a minimum or a main approach avenue.

  • Generally two main battle areas, but there can be up to four (rest are skirmishes).

  • What is the range of the artillery (how far can you shoot).


Spotting your artillery.

  • Out of line of sight from opposing forces blocked by terrain (hill, berm, sitting in a depression).

  • Behind building or rock (cover).

  • Behind Bushes and knocked down trees (concealment). Do not knock down a tree and immediately spot there (concealment does not offer protection).

  • Wide open if no enemy forces in your max view range.


How to pick an arty spot.

  • Be able to shoot the main battle area - mentally draw a line (or use the camera view line when in drivers view) from street or main battle area back to your side, don't get boxed in, if you get boxed in is something to provide protection.

  • In certain instances you might want to drive in artillery view and navigate using the map, you can be somewhat pre-aimed and just need to stop to get a good aim. You can be aimed at potential targets and use the map to navigate or be aimed a short distance in front of you and be able to see where you are going.

  • Where teams are seeded can make a big difference where you can spot, when teams are seeded in the traditional manner may or may not work when they are seeded not traditional.

  • Try not to spot out in the open.


  • It is possible to spot in the open and shoot without being detected if the vehicles are outside your max view range. (See the spotting post for discussion on current view, max view, and max draw range - Spotting Mechanics (wixsite.com)). See examples in this post for spotting in the open.

  • Try and find a spot that gives you the most avenues to fire, something between you and opposing forces direct fire or observation (down tree, building or boulder preferred) and cover mains battle areas.

  • Short and mid range Arty - position yourself where you can best support the team and survive. You might not be able to range the whole map, if there is long range arty too, let them get the long shots (hopefully). Short range is always in danger of the forces in front being over run, with arty like the leaf blower you will not be able to always cover the whole map, move up as the situation allows if needed.


  • Move up when team overwhelming and it appears safe, shorter time of flight and better chance of hitting a target, Situational Dependent: safe spot if that flank fails

  • Why pick spots - protected/cover/concealed/team support (tanks covering flanks) shot availability

  • There is always one spot every map for arty neither side gets an advantage on better firing locations. What they give one side they generally give the other side, might be harder finding the spot on one side of the map.


Look at the map

  • Where are the likely Main Battle Areas (Generally two locations)

  • Where are the likely Main Skirmish Areas

  • It may take several times on a map to determine where the opposing team generally locates

  • It may take several times on a map to determine the best place to spot yourself


  • Where will you have shots into the Battle and Skirmish Areas

  • What features (buildings, terrain, etc) block/limit your shots, can you spot to shoot around them

  • What are the key and critical areas (may take a few battles to determine)

Map Analysis

Red Areas where opposing forces usually locate

White areas that you can not fire

Yellow where you can fire from Location 1

Blue where you can fire from Location 2

Both are good spots Location 1 is a little better as can fire into H9

Trajectory View showing H9 from the picture above


General Rule - Do not Spot Arty in Open.


Considerations when you can spot in the open.

  • Threats are outside your max view range (400 m). You can spot in the open if you are pretty certain vehicles are outside you "max view circle."

  • If you do spot in the open have the ground, buildings or trees/vegetation mask your view. Any opposing forces within your max view range can spot you unless something is masking you from there view.

  • Your view is masked from direct observation. The ground (depression, slight rise) or a building masks your view from direct observation, concealment will not mask your view the muzzle flash will expose your position.

  • Why pick spots: shot selection, protected/cover/concealed, team support (covers flanks), use vegetation/trees, ground depressions less chance of being spotted, etc.

Artillery Locations. These are not all the locations, generally medium to long range artillery.


These locations are from the World of Tanks SPG Guide Author is unknown


Abbey



Cliff


El-halluf



Ensk



Erlenberg


Himmelsdorf



Karelia



Komarin



Lakeville



Malinovka



Murovanka



Prokhorovka



Ruinberg



Sand River



3 POSITIONING ARTILLERY

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SHOT SELECTION


  • Help a push or flank in danger of collapsing - situationally dependent .

  • Priorities: Scouts, Heavies, Arty. Tanks can fire 3x as faster, if a tank poses a greater threat go for them instead of artillery (they are pushing hard and we are losing that flank).

  • If no good shot is available use stun/splash damage shots to try and make a vehicle move to where someone else has a better shot.


  • Using stuns to help tanks.

  • Getting splash damage kills on low health tanks behind rocks and buildings.

  • You don't have to have a direct shot to get a kill, learn when you can get splash kills by just getting the round close on low health vehicles (10 - 30 percent health).


SHOT SELECTION

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4. AIMING


  • The tips will generally work for overhead or trajectory, unless stated otherwise the tips are for trajectory view.

  • If you don't see your round explode either you hit the target that is no longer visible (blind shot or disappeared) or you hit something blocking the shot (roof tops, church steeples, side of mountain, etc.). For Arty with a short reload (10 sec or less), keep shooting the same spot until you see your round explode.

  • Using Trajectory or Overhead is a personal choice. Use what works best for you Trajectory or Overhead. Generally I am in Trajectory, but I do switch between the views


  • Small circle - small circle small circle - Patience above all

  • Fast mover coming at you - aim way short and let the dot close (Arty View) or in direct fire aim a bit low

  • Some Arty is quirky, will consistently shot a little long or short (AMX 13 F3).


  • Sometimes it is better to pass up a hasty or less sure shot for a better shot

  • Sometimes it is better to wait 0.5 sec to get a better shot on vehicle

  • Analyze shot as you are aiming.


  • Do you need to make some adjustments to your normal point of aim:

    • Front of tank, Center Mass, Rear of tank

    • Is the target on level ground

    • Is the target on a slope or in a depression.

    • Backside of slope at upper portion of turret if only turret is visible (If in trajectory mode)

    • Backside of slope Center of Mass of what you can see

    • RNG - not as much of a factor for arty as some claim.

      • Is it random or is it consistent?

      • If it is consistent apply kentucky windage, if it is random aim as you always do.


  • Rotating a turreted artillery hull is much faster to get the point of aim on the target then just using the turret.


  • Use Overhead for:

    • Leading targets in forests or heavy vegetation

    • Counter battery in forests or vegetation

    • Splash damage and splash kills when trajectory does not allow you to see a vehicle behind a building or rock.


  • Overhead or trajectory you will either see the vehicle or a red outline of the vehicle.

  • Trajectory mode may show target being available where as overhead might not.

  • For some difficult shots switch between trajectory and overhead to see which gives a better aim. overhead sometimes works better for splash damage behind structures and boulders.


  • When direct firing from drivers view (td mode) artillery rounds arc higher arc then tank rounds if you aim at the center of mass (dead center or the middle) the round will arc over the top of the vehicle.

  • For Frontal Shots. Just in front of the vehicle or the lower front slope of the vehicle (glacis).

  • For side shots at the tracks, road wheels or just in front of the side of the vehicle.


If you Direct fire in TD Mode (Driver View)

  • Aim low or use shot gun

  • Splash if you can not get direct fire shot in fast enough

  • Back away from the direction they are moving it gets your gun around quicker (arty with turrets barrel locked or unlocked).

  • Juke


  • The line going to the center of the reticle is the approximate firing trajectory. It's sensitive to the landscape and is color-coded:

    • Green — your shell will reach its target

    • Red — there's an obstacle on the way, usually a hill or building;

    • No aiming circle or grey — the target is out of range.


  • In cities and mountainous terrain, go from zoom in to zoom out (works well when shooting behind rocks), leaving the reticle where it was at zoom in then zoom out to check and see if any obstructions like roofs, steeples, mountain tops.


  • Zoom out

    • Ridgelines and rocks to see where the round lands.

    • In cities to see if building may block shot.

    • City, Crest shots,

    • Just below crest

    • Wonky reticle

    • Hills - uphill short - downhill long


  • Time permitting is there a pattern to vehicle movements - are they juking in place, firing then backing up to reload, not moving from spot, random moves, likely spot they will move to (dead vehicle, rock, vegetation, building) - if pattern to their moves try and time shot to where they will be.

  • Splash Damage and Splash Damage Kills (Vehicle behind building or boulder)

  • Using overhead to see behind a building (rock) where the tank is exactly when trajectory will not work and placing aiming dot as close to tank as possible


  • Reverse slope shots - when aimed center of mass a lot of time the round ends short or long, aim top of tank - mid cupola (even then it might go long or short lol). It is a bit of an art shooting reverse slope or backside of a hill, just takes practice.

  • Reverse slope (backside of a hill or mountain) or vehicles behind a berm put red dot on commanders cupola when less then 1/2 of the tank is visible or try overhead. Shooting at a vehicle behind a berm. need to aim about mid to just below top of turret, bit to low and you hit the berm bit to high and it goes way long


Leading a target.


Either pre-aim where the tank will be or move the reticle in front of the vehicle (approximately 3 -5 vehicle lengths in either case). Place the aiming circle a good distance in front right/left when aiming circle gets small surely and steadily move the aiming dot back to the target. To prevent reticle blossom pre-aim where you think the target will be when your circle gets small and still within your firing V.

Moving away from or towards you .

  • Aim way in front of the target until green circle closes then move to a lead point about 3 to 5 tanks in front of target.

  • Different leads based on type arty or distance shooting.

  • Kentucky windage based on where first round lands.


  • Vehicle moving away from you


+ aiming point (3 to 5 lengths)

^ direction of travel

|

H tank


  • Vehicle moving towards you


H tank

|

v Direction of travel

+ aiming point (3 to 5 lengths)


H: represents the target

+: sign where you are aiming

Pre- aimed three to five tank lengths generally

Place the trailing edge of the aiming V just behind the target with the leading edge in front of the direction the vehicle is moving


  • For a wide aiming fan, for a narrow aiming fan trailing aiming v might be 3 -10 in front.

  • Another way is to pre-aim where you think the vehicle will be and then shoot when it is 3 to 5 vehicles from that point.


Trail of aiming V

/

/ x (target)

/

/_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ /

/ | /leading edge of aiming V

/ | /

v + <--------------- (aiming point)

Target moving this direction

Keep the aiming point the in the middle of the aiming v, if you shift your aiming point

to a target one the edge of the aiming v the reticle will blossom if your artillery rotates

using the treads to shift to the new aiming point.


Leading Targets:


  • Right to Left and Left to right. Put tank on far side of circle then move to tank and fire when 3-5 lengths before the tank

    • ---> (X- +) ( ) equals edges of circle X- equals tank

    • <--- (+ -X)

  • Or pre-aim 3 - 5 vehicle length in front of where the vehicle will be, which might mean you are initially aiming 10 vehicles in front, and firing when the vehicle is 3 - 5 from where you are aiming

  • Vehicles going down hill tend to pick up speed apply a bigger lead then 3 -5 vehicles or wait until the vehicle slows down or stops.

Other


How to counter battery: look for tracer fire and shoot just behind it (Arty with long reloads

2/3 of reload time last 1/3 reload pr-eaim - visible target or last probable know location)


Certain buildings and structures can be destroyed by shooting them (wood buildings and

many smoke stacks).


If a destructible building/structure is blocking a shot and you have noother shots consider

taking out the building/structure, especially if a team is capping and the clock is running

down.


Analyze the shot (Don't sit still and ogle it, move in Arty View and watch.


  • *Location. Level Ground, on a slope, behind a building/berm (aiming point for each).

  • *Angle of the arc. Will changing location get a better trajectory, higher/lower ground so you have a steep arc versus a flat arc ( can also use i.e. boulder), the slope of the shot (the more segrees of the arc the better the shot), very low angle versus high angle, plunging fire versus enfilade (\ versus -), does not apply to direct fire shot.


Kentucky windage. If your round is consistently hitting in the same place other then where

you are aiming then you adjust your aim, for example it is always long you aim short, if it is

always right you aim left. You adjust your aim by the distance and direction the round is

landing from where you aim. This presumes you are shooting when you have the smallest

aiming circle, however it does work sometimes when you have larger aiming circles.

Remember your round can land anywhere in that aiming circle. You move the aiming point

the same distance opposite of where the round is landing in relationship to the target.


lands left aim right


x1 <................................................ H o O

^ ^ ^

| | |

| | |

(x1- where 1st round is landing) o-1st aiming point |

|

O - new aiming point


The round is landing to the left of the target, shift your aiming point the same distance to

the right.


Kentucky windage. Basically if it lands left of the target aim to the right of the target, if it

goes long aim short, and vice versa.


Short Aiming Summary


  • Small circle (sometimes better to pass on snap shot).

  • No dot No shot. Make sure aiming dot is in the circle if it is not something is blocking the shot. . Zoom out. Can you move a little, to make the shot.

  • Generally use trajectory mode (personal choice you might find overhead better).

  • Analyze each shot or potential shot (Can you move a bit to get a better shot (back/forward/right/left)


  • Mentally draw a line from where the target or main battle area is back to a firing location

  • Just before the aiming circle closes sure steady movements placing the aiming dot on target.

  • Aim anywhere from 1/4 inch from the target, to the target being in the aiming circle or jus toutside the aiming circle.


  • Locking the tracks lets you look in another direction.

    • Click where you want to view, the view changes but the gun stays aimed in same direction at the original target.

    • Great for counter battery yet keep gun pointed towards known targets.

    • Lets you look to see if a target is shoot-able in another place - with changing where gun is aimed.


If your target is on the edge of the aiming V if you just bump the "a (left)" or "d" key lightly

the circle will blossom but not as much.


  • Align the target to the center of the aiming V (aiming fan) rotate the vehicle left or right (a/d). Another way to align is to aim off to the left or right past the left/right limits of the fan then bring the aiming point back to the target.


Rotating a turreted artillery hull is much faster to get the point of aim on the target then just

using the turret.


Summary

  • Zoom out: counter battery and city shots to see if building or steeple blocking

  • Knowing when range is acting wonky and using kentucky windage to adjust for it

  • Arty is major contributor but generally not a game changer


  • Learning to pass on low percentage shots if a higher percentage shot is available

  • Learning how to make low percentage shots (aiming high/low)

  • Zooming out if something is potentially blocking the shot if you have a green dot and don't see the impact when you fire.

  • Aim small miss small (small circle)


4 AIMING

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5. FACTORS AFFECTING SHOTS (Long , short, on target)


  • Analyze each shot why did it miss - long short right left, why did it miss mark - RNG - firing at target on a slope - the slope your firing from - etc. A lot of people blame it on RNG when it is other factors:

    • Target is on a hill

    • Your are on a hill

    • Target is not on level ground

    • You are not on level ground

  • Uphill or downhill slope can be used to to change the arc to hit behind some buildings. Big boulders can do the same (creep forward on to it or back on to )


  • Sometimes the rounds regardless of the factors seems to be consistently short or long, use (Using Kentucky windage if RNG is consistently long/short/left/right , it may be for a game or several games.)

  • Sometimes regardless of the factors, it might be long one time and short the next.

  • Sometimes the round will go outside the aiming circle.


Note to self - check real world ballistics shooting up hill - short? shooting down hill - long?

Factors affecting where your round lands (short, long, on target)

  • If you miss why: wrong aiming point, RNG (not generally)

  • Is the ground/slope of where you are firing from changing where the round lands

  • RNG (rng - Random Number Generator)


  • Round should land within aiming circle.

  • Rounds consistently short or long.

  • Rounds land outside the aiming circle.


Shooting at target on a hill

  • Back slope (are they moving up or down it)

  • Front slope (are they moving up or down it)

  • Side slope


Elevation of you in relation to target (higher, lower same). Easier shot from higher/same

elevation then from lower (greater chance of short or long)


Ground where you are affects where round lands

  • Level

  • On a slope

    • Up slope

    • Down slope

    • Side slope


Ground where your target is affects where round lands

  • Level

  • On a slope

    • Up slope

    • Down slope

    • Side slope


Using Slope boulders other to change the arc of fire.


Sometimes if you need a steeper arc of fire to hit behind an obstacle (rock/building) you can use the slope of a hill or use a rock (other object) drive onto the rock so the vehicle is not level, this will change the slope :i.e.


Driving onto a boulder

Front of Vehicle //.0

+//.0 O -> gun direction

Rear of Vehicle //. 0 OO



Backing onto a boulder

Rear of Vehicle 0.\\ -> gun direction

O 0.\\+

Front of Vehicle OO 0.\\


Diagonal slash ( // ) represents the vehicle, .0 the tread, O represents the rock (object)

Note to self do this in paint showing arc of round

5 FACTORS AFFECTING SHOTS

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6. COUNTER BATTERY


  • Counter Battery is looking for tracer fire from opposing artillery.

  • Leave tree in front standing knock the one down behind

  • Three basic thoughts:

    • Not at all it is a waste of time

    • Counter Battery when other shots are not available

    • Pass up visible targets to Counter Battery


Counter battery Techniques

  • Overhead view gives a more precision location especially in wooded areas smaller viewing areas

  • Trajectory view gives a wider viewing area, decent in open areas.

  • Shoot behind where you spot the tracer (2-3 vehicle lengths). The tracer starts at the end of the gun barrel or a little beyond it, not at the center of the artillery piece.

  • Look for possible spots during reload during long reloads.

  • It may take 2 or 3 spotting's to get an exact location (you only have a brief moment to spot the tracer).


  • If the artillery is not moving after each shot it can be shot when no other shots are available.

  • Terrain and Vegetation/Trees can sometimes mask artillery fire.

  • Lock tracks on major battle area or visible targets while waiting for reload, observe potential arty locations.

  • If battery fire is observed unlock tracks and maintain aiming point on where the arty fire was observed.

  • On certain maps it is easier locating opposing artillery.

    • Terrain and vegetation does not mask the tracer

    • Fewer spots for Arty to locate at.


Keeping the tracks locked if no artillery fire is observed will keep the gun pointed at

original location and cut back on aim time for that location.


Countering Counter Battery.

  • Consider moving to where the shot just landed, if they missed they most likely will not shoot there again.

  • Move after every shot 1.5 - 2 vehicle lengths/widths (foward/back right/left)

  • Keep movements random

  • Stay in artillery view when moving so you can spot where your round lands.


  • Know what is around you so you don't run over something that will expose your position when you are moving blind (Another reason for knocking trees down, fences, telephone poles).

  • Consider re-spotting a short distance (10 - 15 vehicle) if you receive counter battery fire.

  • Keeping the tracks locked if no artillery fire is observed will keep the gun pointed at original location and cut back on aim time for that location.

  • Move to where the round just impacted.


Counter Battery pros and cons.

  • Pro.

    • Taking out artillery takes out the one vehicle that can shoot where tanks can not.

    • If there are no visible targets

  • Con.

    • Generally you are passing up a known shot for a maybe

    • If you don't take out the artillery in one shot, it can still operate effectively at reduced health.

    • Tanks generally cause more damage/kills then artillery.

    • Generally tanks have three times the rate of fire compared to artillery.

    • If you practice counter counter battery with artillery having reloads under 25 seconds, by the time you move and re-spot the gun is nearly loaded.


My preference is shooting a known visible target over a possible target.


Sometimes I do get complacent or forget to move and get taken out by counter battery

on occasion. Moving up is preferred as counter counter battery since aim behind tracer.


Does zooming in help spot artillery fire


Several things can mask tracer fire of opposing artillery: trees and vegetation (i.e in a bush

behind a tree), terrain (in a depression, slope of hill, the face of a cliff, reverse slope, the

angle of the reverse slope) the angle you are viewing from in conjunction with the fore

mentioned, and where they are in relation to you side view versus inline with your point of

aim. (Tr--B..Arty - Tracer observed ....Boulder......Arty, Arty was on one side of a boulder

but the tracer was not observed until the round was on the other side.)


Notes to self on Counter Battery to try in a game

  • How long and how many times scan one area for tracers.

  • Lock tracks on visible target or pre-aimed probable location and scan in arty view for tracer fire

  • How much time during reload before switching aim to know target

  • Overhead or Trajectory better?

  • Zoomed in or zoomed out?

  • Based on the map or reload time to even practise counter battery.


6 COUNTER BATTERY

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7. TECHNIQUES


Blind shots.

  • If the vehicle has been spotted and you feel they have not moved.

  • If no one is spotted and based on your experience, shoot where tanks generally spot from.

  • Based on the battle flow, if a vehicle dies and no vehicle is spotted, where is the most likely location the shot came from.

  • If you see an enemy comfortably settled, and if they didn’t move from their spot, then you have a good chance to fire at that spot – even if you had to do it blind.


  • When you see too many targets on the map, take a note where TDs and defending tanks are hiding. Remember which bush, and which rock. Then come back later and fire blind at those spots.

  • You can even fire blind at moving targets and still score a kill. Continue a moving lead and when the target gets to where you believe it will be fire.

  • Fire Blind. Blind fire certainly works – especially against new players, and tank destroyers, arty or even tanks hiding at base, and they hadn’t realize they were spotted.

  • Blind fire works. It gets kills a good arty player will fire blind when the circumstances look promising


Head to head (One on One)

  • Other side of berm/hill back up (gun will not depress far enough)

  • Aim a bit low at base of vehicle the round arcs high if in drivers view (td mode).

  • Opponent is uphill - generally you will not get the gun depression, backup.

  • Backup opposite the direction they are turning versus rotating in place.

  • Arty elevates better (tanks depress better) back up from berm or crest of hill instead of cresting and your gun will not depress far enough or in time.


Other

  • Counter Battery - 1.5 - 3 vehicles behind tracer (Untested)?

  • Keep you gun barrel down when moving either right click to lock in place or use the mouse.

  • Adapt your style of play play to map or change your style of play based on the map

  • Choose equipment which helps your style of play or makes up for vehicle weakness/own or enhances your style of play/vehicle


7 TECHNIQUES

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Note to the readers I over analyze keep it simple: Small Circle - PreAim - Patience

These will be repeated often I feel they are important.

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8. BATTLE FIELD ANALYSIS


Where Are:

  • Main Battle Area (Generally two at most)

  • Major Skirmish Areas

  • Avenues of Attack


  • Escape routes/Escape positons

  • Firing Locations

  • Start/Middle/End Game


End game or no one spotting where are the likely bushes and rocks, etc tanks are hiding

and sniping behind.


8 BATTLE FIELD ANAYLYSIS

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9. BATTLE FIELD PREPARATION


  • Knock down trees you may need for concealment later.

  • Take out wooden/destructible buildings that vehicles hide behind if no other shots are available

  • Identify covered and concealed positions.

  • Identify covered and concealed escape routes.


  • Never hide in a tree you just knocked down if possible.

  • Be deceptive, alternate how you knock down trees

  • Drive thru the tree (forward, right, left)

  • Back into a tree and pull forward

  • Keep it random, never knock the next tree down the way you knocked the tree before


Knocking down trees two philosophies.

  • Dont't

  • Knock everyone down you can.

    • Don't hide in the one you just knocked down

    • Move thru the tree you just knocked down (generally they will shoot at the tree) or back into a tree and move forward.


Knocking down Trees. Knocking trees down goes against what many feel. If you decide

to knock trees down to prepare your area for the end game there is a bit of an art form to

it. The feeling is that it gives away your position and you could be targeted by artillery, this

is true. With that in mind there is always a risk in knocking trees down, try not to spot in

the tree you just knocked down. Either leave tree in front standing knock the one down

behind or vice versa, or knock them both down (might mask tracer fire if you are spotted

5 meters back. Granted artillery is prone to fire at the knocked down tree but if you are

not dead center or even behind it - will loose some health but still operable.


Tall skinny fir trees can be used for concealment like those on the Studzianki map, use

the crown of the tree.


9 BATTLE FIELD PREPARATION

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10. SPLASH KILLS AND SPLASH DAMAGE


Splash Kills

  • Not used enough

  • Vehicles Below 10 - 30 Percent health can many times be killed by splash.


Splash Damage.

  • Will sometimes make a vehicle move for a better shot by yourself or team.

  • If no good shots available.

  • In cities shoot the wall behind/close to vehicle if no direct shots available


Splash Damage: Vehicles close to corner buildings, behind rocks, behind buildings. It

might be able to splash damage a vehicle right beside a building (rock) where you round

will land to far from the building by hitting edge of roof above the vehicle or hitting a wall

close to vehicle where it will splash the vehicle |(< <-----------.


Splash damage kills: for low health kills behind buildings rocks if the target is under 30

percent you don't have to hit the target to get a kill, many times you can get a splash

damage kill (overhead view to get splash as close as possible if you can not get a good

idea from the trajectory view)


Take out buildings and other structures: for future shots or so enemy can not use them for

concealment when no other shots are available.


I reprogrammed f and r keys so they don't work for forward and reverse, can lock arty in place generally I don't lock the tracks but arty can drift from original location.


10 SPLASH DAMAGE AND SPLASH KILL

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11. OTHER


Always watch the map.


While you are waiting for the aiming circle to get small glance at the map.

  • Look for where your forces are:

  • Is there a area that is in danger of being overrun , threats, other targets

  • Does someone need help

  • Do you need to move are you in danger of being over run.

  • Look where you might have to re-spot before you need to.


If you don't see your round explode either you hit the target that is no longer visible or not

visible (i.e. counter battery) or you hit something blocking the shot (roof tops in town,

church steeples, etc.). For Arty with a short reload (10 sec or less), keep shooting the same

spot until you see your round explode.


Blind shooting the cap. When time is running out and no one is spotting the cap, take

blind shots on the cap at likely spots (next to building, large mounts of rocks, reverse

slopes or depressions). If there are not likely spots, take random shots. It is better to hold a

shot if it appears a tank is trying to spot the cap then take a blind shot.


Big gun versus middle or smaller gun. Some of it is personal preference, I choose the

bigger gun if the reload time is close to a smaller gun within about 10 sec difference, if the

load time is nearly 1.5 greater then smaller gun then I choose the smaller gun. In a close

battle where time to fire may be crucial, getting off 2 shots maybe better then getting of

just a shot, if the one shot does not knock the other vehicle out. If you miss totally with a

larger gun it can be a long wait until you are reloaded. With a larger gun you do have a

longer time locate to opposing arty during the reload.


Lighter gun faster vehicle? Smaller gun not the smallest faster reload time - trade of versus big gun more damage slower reload


The grid system I use is pretty simple, at least I think so. I adapted the military grid to WOT,

you start at the lower left, the grid is then divided into 1/10 of a square, first it it right then

up so .2 would be 2 tenths right then .4 would be 4 tenths up. Grid-system-i-use


Moving the vehicle

  • Some times it is quicker to get arty turned around by backing up and turning then pulling forward to get to a point then backing up or pivoting in place.

  • Back up a bit in the opposite direction of where they want to go and then pull forward seems to turn quicker then pivoting in place.

  • Some times a back (opposite direction of travel) and forth motion to turn versus pivot in place.


When going head to head with another vehicle. Back up and turn opposite of where they

are going to bring gun around quicker in a reverse direction the vehicle is coming from or

turning to (works in a tank to, back opposite direction of travel while rotating turret to the

other vehicle). It does not work in a death circle between two tanks. Drive in to building at

a sharp angle (pivot in place if necessary) and repeat the move if needed . Ram at a sharp

angle with a front track/vehicle corner, the front of the track/corner of vehicle making

contact versus the middle portion of the vehicle hull.


Runaway games - getting damage versus kills


Leaf Blower can self spot for enemy tanks, 500 m spotting distance, good bush/fallen tree,

try not to shoot if they are within second circle if possible back up out of it then fire. Aim

time is fast maybe better to run bino's and optics at same time.


Try never to go below 1 million silver and definitely never below 500,000, WOT will never let

you get into the negative, you just won't be able to repair vehicles until you have enough silver.


Mistake most new players make is trying to move up tiers two quickly - I suggest focus on

4,5 and 6 build up the crew skills and silver.


Buying higher tier tanks and initially transfer a crew that has a skill to a higher tier tank or

Arty you buy once you get some mid tier tanks crews with one skill. Crews train faster at

higher tiers because you generally get more damage which means more xp. Try not to take

the whole crew from a single vehicle.


Tier II hard to play, no splash, playing occasionally may help upper Tier play.


Rental vehicles a lot of the times the crew comes with a skill, so before you get rid of the

vehicle - send them to the barracks so you can retrain and use them on another vehicle


If possible knock trees down behind leave tree in front standing?

Battlefield analysis, where are shot possibly coming from that are killing our tanks?


Binos and optics except for the leaf blower in my opinion are useless - the little

concealment protection camo gives you - by the time u spot them it is too late. if the

camo net is free and you don't have anything to put in the slot then I put camo and or

bino/optic. Camo and optics/binos generally useful end game - i pick what I will use

during the game most often, over something that may not be used. I focus on what gives

me more skills or my gun or vehicle better performance (rammer, enhanced drive,

improved rotation mechanism)


My really slow upper tier arty tier ix and x I go with rammer, enhanced drive vent purge (if

available) and ***** turbo charger (Aim time is less of a factor when the load times are

long).


When 6th sense (if you have it) goes off you have already been spotted for 2 sec, where is

the most likely place they are at, take action to move away or put something between you and the most likely spot.

Never depend on a flank holding, never think you can get one more shot in before

Re-spotting (move then), have routes routes of egress (escape routes) planned if flank fails

or hide/concealed positions for one last shot.


Never depend on help or expect help or expect another player to support your position by

spotting or help defend.


11 OTHER

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12. EXAMPLES


Taking out Smoke Stacks.

At the time of this post (2/21/2021) the towers show below could be taken out with an

artillery round or by some tanks with an HE Round.


Two smoke stacks Studzianki (Image 7)

One smoke stack destroyed by artillery round (Tank HE sometimes works too) (Image 8)

Towers/Smokestacks below can not be taken out. (Image 9)


The smoke stack immediately above are not longer destructible, wot constantly makes changes but previously was before one of the changes.


Structures which can not be taken out.

- Brick buildings and water towers (Fjords C4) generally can not be taken out by shooting

at them, sometimes the roofs on brick building can, giving you future shots behind the

building. Destructible: Some rooftops/chimneys, adobe/clay/wood buildings


Spotting in the open. (Image 10)


- Below are examples of spotting in the open that should work (taken close to start of

battle just before vehicle is in firing position).

- Examples are Situationally Dependent based on location of friendly and enemy forces, what is good in one instance is bad in another based on where everybody is.


Example #1 Defending (Vehicle is in firing position, gun has not to direction of fire)


Please note location of the flag and team is Defending, if this were the Standard Battle you

could be spotted by forces along the A and B lines unless you moved further up the hill

behind the rock or in the vegetation. (Image 10)

Example 2 Standard Battle (Image 11)

The vehicle is moving to firing position



These are for the flags as shown. The black Circle is the intended area to spot, as you can see the ground slopes back and away from the open area down the 7-8-9 lines. The top of the berm line is the red line just immediately below the red arrows. Driver View from circled

area. (Hex # for red color E60909).


Example 3 (Image 12)


Looks right but can be spotted from right side, not sure why but unless you knock at least

one tree down you can be spotted from opposing forces in A5 thru A7.


Spotted in open (no vehicles in max view range (white circle)) (Image 13)



Example of Maximum Range (Image 14)



When you are at the maximum range of your artillery the aiming circle will be extremely elongated or a straight line. Note the artillery in this instance was the leaf blower (medium

long range), generally long range artillery can hit this spot on this map.


Driving in Artillery View not using the map to see where you are going. (Image 15)



Site preparation for later in battle (Image 16)

  • Yellow is for observation later in battle

  • Red is for hiding later in battle

  • Do not hide in the tree you just knocked down

  • If possible knock down more then one tree so it is not so obvious where you might be

Reduce chance of Blossom reticle (Image 17)

  • Place target in center of aiming V (If the target is on the limit of the aiming V.)

  • Aim immediately in front of vehicle.


Aiming point should not be on the vehicle, the vehicle can be inside or just outside of

the aiming circle. Once the circle closes sure steady move putting the aiming point on target.



Small Circle - Small Circle. Look at the picture above, while you are waiting for the the circle to get small, you can keep it close to on target by looking at the map and keeping the

target in the center of the green box on the map, glancing between the map and driver

view.


While you are looking at the map, look for where your forces are, is there a area that is in danger of being overrun , threats, other targets, does someone need help, and do you

need to move are you in danger of being over run.


BIA crew not trained on vehicle but all crew has it - BIA in effect (Image 19)



12 EXAMPLES

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13. Reticle Blossom


Thanks Blackhawk, he figured this one out.


Reticle Blossoms When your arty hull moves the reticle will blossom.

(See Examples this post)


Reticle blossom is when your reticle expands out to the largest size. The solution is put the

target inside the map aiming V and use sure steady movements. The two major causes for

reticle blossom are hull movement and quick sudden aiming point movement. If the target is on the edge of the aiming v and you move the aim to where the targetis and it is just

outside the aiming V, the reticle will blossom when the hull moves.


Initially it seemed like it was more of a problem with certain vehicles and certain maps.


Other factors which help reduce reticle blossoms.

  • Zoom in in 1/2 to 1/3 if zoomed all the way out.

  • Aim just off the target if fully zoomed out or the blossom is occuring when zoomed in.

  • Straighten out tracks in the and put the target in the middle of the firing V.

  • Once you get outside of the gun firing V left to right range the tracks move the vehicle to put the target back in the firing V and the reticle will bloom.

Reducing Reticle Blossom (Image 18)


Three things helped reduce but not eliminate the reticle blossom.

  • Changing windows settings and unchecking "Enhanced Pointer Precision"

  • Changing mouse settings (medium?)

    • DPI

    • Mouse Properties Cursor speed

    • Changing both DPI and cursor speed (slowing one down and speeding the other up)

  • * Improved Rotation Mechanism (Equipment Slots)


Possible Causes.

  • Vehicles outside the firing V

  • Game glitch.

  • Mouse

  • Mouse Pad

  • Computer hardware

  • Game graphics settings

  • Computer graphics settings

  • Dirty mouse pad or optical reader.

  • Cursor Speed

  • Windows Settings (6)

  • Mouse Properties (Pointer Options Tab) (5)

  • Change both one fast one slow?

  • DPI settings (1200?/2400)

  • Keep your mouse pad clean, wipe it off occasionally.


Mouse Settings

  • DPI settings - Consider adjusting DPI settings.

  • Windows - Speed (Windows Settings - apx 4 - 6. Mouse Properties - apx - 3)

  • Disable enhanced pointer options in windows settings


Thanks Blackhawk, you figured out the blossoming (expanding reticle)


Mouse Pads and accessories. Teflon Baking sheet. Aluminum Mouse pad - Lowes Hardware, Furniture Wax, Michael Jackson Jersey Gloves, (wired/wireless) HVAC tape,

Teflon, silicone, art work, personalized lubricant.


13 RETICLE BLOSSOMS

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14 CLOSING


Hell everyone can't be good at everything, I accepted that, I am not reall good at arty but I play it better then a tank - so play it. Not everyone can't be in the major leagues, they have

amateur and semipro's too. When trolls say I suck I tell them: That is intuitively obvious to

the casual observer and they have severely understated it and that I should uninstall the game.


Love the fall back comment to which i think yeah dude that was 3 minutes ago way to late before the 5 tanks on the flank died in 2 minutes, got not tanks to spot for me - well frick no

turret, damn slow and blind as a bat.


Summary


Rule of 5

1 Small circle - Small circle - Small circle

2 Pre-aim

3 Patience

4 Aiming point in center of map firing V (Keeps the reticle from blossoming)

5 CTRL Key + Mouse Right Click (Shifts aiming point to where you click on the map)


Second 5

6 Lock your tracks (Wide Firing V - when possible narrow firing V)

7 High Ground (Spot the high ground)

8 Battle Field Analysis

Main Battle Area (Generally two at most)

Major Skirmish Areas

Avenues of Attack

Escape routes/positons

Firing Locations - Where will you spot

Start/Middle/End Game

Probable enemy artillery locations

9 Battle Field Preparation

10 Splash Damage/Splash Kills.

Splash Kills

Not used enough

Vehicles Below 10 - 30 Percent health can many times be killed by splash.

Getting splash damage kills on low health tanks behind rocks and buildings.

Splash Damage.

Will sometimes make a vehicle move for a better shot by yourself or team.

If no good shots available.

In cities shoot the wall behind/close to vehicle if no direct shot available.

Splash damage or stun a vehicle to move so someone has a better shot.

Using stuns to help tanks.

Third Five

11 Fifteen meters behind vegetation when possible (reduce muzzle flash)

12 Max View Range (Are you outside direct observation within the max view range)

13 Mini-Map (Train yourself to look during reloads or when aiming circle is closing)

14 Think options don't get one tracked target fixated

(wait charge, other routes, etc)

15 High Ground (Easier shooting high to low then low to high)


More


16 Aim way short as circle closes move it to target.

17 Bail out locations to re- spot to (near and far)

18 Can you re-spot safely to make the shot especially end game.

19 Moving Targets - Aim where they will be when the shell lands (3 - 5 vehicle lengths)

  • Reticle Blossoms

    • Target in middle of firing V

    • Sure Steady Movements not fast


Ask me a simple question and I will give you a convoluted lengthy complicated answer. I guess I really don't understand this Einstein basically said if you can't explain it in simple

common language you don't understand the material if it takes a scientist to make sense

of it. Wait maybe I do - Keep it simple:


  • Small circle - small circle small circle

  • Pre-aim

  • Patience above all

  • Target in the middle of the map aiming V

  • CTRL + right mouse click.

  • Good Battle Flow shot potential before - during - mid game. Do you need to move.


A bit of sarcastic humor: Remember it is just aim and click you will hit the target

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Human Reaction time from thought to action is about 215 milliseconds, which is better for

the leaf the extra spotting distance or the aim time? By using the enhanced aiming drive

you reduce the aim time by .4 seconds (400 milliseconds) but if you spot threats sooner

which is better? Aim time is used more then spotting. Just clicking the button takes about

.4 sec if you don't believe got to this website:


For the Geeks:

How Speedy Are You? Take the Reaction-Time Test « Daily Bulletin (accurateshooter.com)

Click hyperlink to go that section


LINKS Hyperlinks not established to be completed soon

https://www.facebook.com/groups/wotartynoobs

Artillery Basics (wixsite.com)

You Tube Video: Explaining Mechanics: Vehicle Spotting - YouTube (website link)

https://anonimouse1.wixsite.com/website/post/spotting-mechanics

Explaining Mechanics: Concealment - Part 2 - YouTube (Link to website)

https://anonimouse1.wixsite.com/website/post/concealment


Beginners Guide to Artillery (SPG) - Game Guides & Tutorials - World of Tanks official forum

Controls and Firing | Newcomer's Guide | World of Tanks

Bonus Code | Guide | World of Tanks | World of Tanks (website link) - Not just Arty

Artillery Guide by Tyraforce – Part 2 | For the Record (wot-news.com)

Tank Manuals | Guide (worldoftanks.eu) - Nothing on artillery

Game Guides and Tutorials - World of Tanks official forum - Various subjects good info

Battery's Revamped Arty Guide (WOT official forum) - Good Breakdown by nation

HOME - World of Tanks Console (XBox and PS4)

http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/595222-batterys-revamped-arty-guide/

https://tanks.gg/techtree/usa

http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:A38_T92

https://tanks.gg/techtree/uk

http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:GB31_Conqueror_Gun

http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:G61_G_E

https://tanks.gg/techtree/germany

http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:F38_Bat_Chatillon155_58

https://tanks.gg/techtree/france

https://tanks.gg/techtree/ussr

http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:R52_Object_261


To be completed - Firing V's of the Different Artillery wixsite.com

Map Strategy: Highway - WoT Guru (Link to website) The link gives some artillery spots.


These locations are from the World of Tanks SPG Guide Author is unknown

http://www.worldoftanksguide.com/combat-spg-guide2.shtml


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



-----------------------------{Post Ends Here}----------------------------------------



Editing Notes to myself feel free to read them nothing about artillery


*****Save page to PC as Html then copy to the post, formatting will be a bit off and pictures will not be there


QUESTIONS

When to switch to driver view for direct fire? 1 - 2 grids?


TO DO

Field Modification Section

To do:

Add updates from Basic Post

Add Techniques from Arty to Add Folder

Himmelsdorf Map

Pearl River Map


Equipment

TD's Vent, Bino, Camo, Optics

Arty - Vent, Rammer, Enhanced Gun Laying Drive, Improved Rotation Mechanish, Turbo

Turbo for slow Arty, Rammer, EGLD, Turbo

Scouts Vent, Bino (Passive Spotting), Optics, Camo, Reduced Noise

Tanks Vent, Optics, Bino


Arty Ranges

Bishop/FV 304/Crusader small gun - White Line

Grille - Yellow + 5 Grid Squares

Leaf +4 Grid Squares (3 Diagonal)


Date: 9/16/2021 7:26 pm


Edited thru the yellow highlite


1. INTRODUCTION AND BASIC ARTILLERY RULES 0 Spaces Heading 2

THE BARE BASICS:

0 Spaces Heading 3


Keep it simple

xx 2 spaces Heading 4


The Rule of 5:

xxxx 4 spaces Paragrpah Bold


Tab

xxxxx 5-6 spaces TAB



11. OTHER Section is extremely disorganized

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Editing Notes:


Keep an original backup that works

If there are problems saving restore the back up

Delete changes

Cut and Paste from Notepad to the Post (eliminates coding errors)

Periodically clear browsing history especially when typing is delayed

Major Numbered Sections: Heading 3 Bold

Subparagraphs bold

Indents Two Spaces - Two Spaces - Tab

Wrap around paragraphs use indent

Wrap around paragraph with following sentences indented, use return end of first sentence

then indent on succeeding sentences

To indent sub bullets highlight and use indent feature

RMB (Right Mouse Button):

To lock barrel in place (i.e. for a shotgun blast)

To look in another direction without moving turret or changing direction (arty).

2-3 Vehicle lengths behind

Points to research or where to put the following in this post:

In game reminders taped to side of monitor.

Arty - Shoot/Mover ^ v <--- --->

Can you move a little bit right/left or forward/back to get the shot

End battle might have to relocate

Note to self: Can you reload a clip at anytime before it is expended.

To do: Complete Aiming V, Aiming Circle Size, Paragraph Reformatting (Tab -2x space)

Note to self: Clear Browser Cache, Use different browser, make sure not updates

Create the hyperlink to the section you want to go.

Hyperlink symbol: - * -

Highlite where you want the link

Click on the link Icon

Scroll to the Section/Paragraph where you want the link

Click on that in the hyperlink window

Click Save

Publish

Log out

Open new Browser in non edit mode

Click on the link

Copy the URL

Go back to the Browser you are in edit mode

Open and edit - paste the URL you copied above

Choosing Section will hyperlink within the page

Choosing Web Address will hyperlink and open a new tab.

Make an open office copy.

Make a notepad copy.

Make a PDF copy.

Paragraph format

12x

1234x

x (Tab - x)

Green indicates external hyperlink

Grey indicates internal hyperlink

Editing HyperLinks

Right click list wait for edit option a Windows Drop Down List will appear first

Carefully click below the link

.

Type the next number wait until it Saves and then when Publish Changes is dark grey click on Publish Changes


Clear Browsing Data

Hit Cancel if the Dark Grey Publish Changes does not appear


Do not double click give it some time - up to a minute


If it starts going real slow check Task Manager

If CPU, Memory or Disk is High

Clear Browsing History

Use CC Cleaner

Repeat close Browsers Reopen Browsers


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